Waiting to be Found

Photograph: Darko Vojinović/AP

This summer, Europe is burning.

Europe has been brutally hot this summer. Temperatures have climbed above 40°C (104°F), wildfires have swept through forests and villages, and here in Belgrade, I’m held hostage in our apartment by the heat.

The Mighty Danube River is suffering too. Water levels have dropped to historic lows and as the river recedes, she has been revealing her secrets. Near Prahovo, on the Serbian-Romanian border, the rusting ghosts of German warships are emerging from the water. They were deliberately sunk in 1944 as German forces retreated from the Soviet army. Some still contain live explosives.

All those years…the river simply moved over them. Governments changed. Countries disappeared and new ones took their place. Ferries, barges, and pleasure boats passed overhead, their passengers unaware of what lay sleeping beneath.

Other eras are being exposed as the water recedes: Roman bridges, mammoth bones, traces of landscapes long buried. There’s something strange about the way a familiar place can suddenly reveal another one beneath it.

As a writer, I’m always interested in what lurks beneath the present: the histories we walk over, build over, sail over, without ever knowing they’re there, waiting.

Sometimes all it takes is for the water to recede.

There is, of course, nothing poetic about why we see the ships now. The drought and extreme heat are part of a frightening pattern, another reminder that climate change no longer belongs to some distant future. Selfishly, I’d hoped the worst of it would belong to “then” rather than “now.”

Pioneer Square, Seattle, circa 1982. Photo of Lya by Kristine Larsen.

Thank you, as always, for reading and for being part of this journey.

Warmly,
Lya

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